Protagonist in this issue: Jaeger-LeCoultre Fine Jewelry Watch Series Q1653401 ‘Limited to 8 pieces-Jaeger-LeCoultre Hollow Tourbillon with a price of 1.3 million’ is a key point in each sentence. Whether it’s a limited amount, a skeleton, or a tourbillon tells us it’s expensive. But what this little elephant wants to discuss with you is not the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand. On the origin of the brand’s historical series, many watch friends can say it right. What I want to discuss with you this time is the tourbillon, one of the three complex technologies. And the real travel time of the tourbillon under various instruments. What is the first tourbillon when shooting a Jaeger-LeCoultre tourbillon under a micro lens? Why can I stay in the altar? The introduction of the tourbillon in 1801 by Breguet shocked the entire watch industry. Today, it is still the top configuration of mechanical watches. According to Blancpain’s information, as early as 1770, Mr. Powell had the idea of rotating the escapement system to eliminate parallax. It took many years for the idea to be patented. The escapement is the heart of a mechanical watch, and the Tourbillon is actually a ‘rotary escapement’. It combines the escapement wheel, pallet and balance spring in a rotating frame. The most common type of rotating frame is one rotation in one minute, which usually appears as a single tourbillon. (Double Tuo, Three Tuo, Four Tuo, three-dimensional, etc., are relatively rare in the market at present) Overview of escapement system To understand the tourbillon in-depth, you need to first understand the structure of the watch: the clockwork in the barrel provides power and passes the center The wheel, passing wheel, and second wheel transfer energy to the escapement speed regulation system, so that the balance spring system can maintain regular work. The tourbillon was born for the accuracy of travel time, and the travel time accuracy of mechanical watches is affected by various factors, these factors have also become the driving force for the development of the watch industry. Among them, the escapement system has always been the highlight: balance of balance, balance spring quality, friction resistance, magnetic field, collision, ambient temperature and so on. The imbalance of the balance wheel will cause the travel time accuracy of each side of the watch to be different (that is, the position error). The Jaeger-LeCoultre tourbillon and the tourbillon escapement, which constantly rotates, can average the position errors of the watch. We commonly call it ‘offset gravity’. But is it really against gravity? Next we look at the following protagonists today: Jaeger-LeCoultre high jewelry watch series Q1653401, limited edition skeleton tourbillon watch. The Jaeger-LeCoultre fine jewelry watch series Q1653401 is not very old and has a new crocodile leather strap, so I wrapped the strap with a film to avoid unnecessary contamination. After obtaining the hand, the entire appearance and function were tested to a certain extent, and the function runs smoothly. I used manual winding for the winding. No winding machine was used. The hand was rolled around 35 times, which was full and the efficiency was high. Before the travel time test, I usually perform a demagnetization operation: this time using a demagnetizer display, it can display the degree of magnetization. The direction of the arrow is the degree of magnetization. The green light of the watch has been demagnetized, and then the test is performed. The data part shown to everyone is mainly the test of instantaneous travel time. Mechanical meter can detect and adjust various technical parameters of the mechanical watch. The main data displayed are frequency, speed, yaw, swing, and rising angle. Some calibration instruments can directly test the overall value of 6 directions. (The data of different calibration instruments will be slightly different due to sensitivity reasons.) The first fully automatic calibration instrument used is displayed. The data is irrelevant. The automatic six-direction test process is displayed. The final data is displayed on the phone. 28.2s, put the upper left and right to within the normal range. However, the overall value is large and the polarization is high. The right 252 swing has just passed. Test data of the second calibration meter In order to ensure the accuracy of the data, I changed to a cheaper calibration meter for running time testing on the surface. The overall data on the face is not much different from the first one, and the position on the face is good. Because the sensitivity of each instrument is different, the value of the third calibration meter is slightly different. But the travel time on the surface is good. The problem lies elsewhere. I think this result should be unexpected by many people. My tablemates often ask me, is the tourbillon travel time 0? Is there no position error? I think the result is obvious now. Although this is not a brand new watch, it is not a Jaeger-LeCoultre that is in urgent need of maintenance or repair. This value is quite common. In fact, it can be said responsibly that the travel time accuracy of the tourbillon is not what we think. The hollowed-out movement under the macro can be seen to be expensive, chamfer polishing, and gear engraving. It has to be traced back to the meaning of the invention. I have seen before that a book about the tourbillon invention was originally intended to be a vertical table clock. Or pocket watch design. This sentence is not unreasonable. The actual wearing of the watch is not flat, and the escapement mechanism that is constantly rotating is not enough to offset the disparity in various states. Finally, the waterproof coefficient test was performed. The waterproof coefficient was displayed because this is a tourbillon watch. Therefore, the test of the waterproof coefficient was selected for 2 pa, which is 20m water resistance. Obviously there is nothing wrong with waterproofing in daily life. I think this Jaeger-LeCoultre test is sufficient to pass this coefficient. We can’t always take the tourbillon data from the factory to refer to it after use. So I went directly to the test without processing it. The data is adjustable, but the unadjusted data is more real. The travel time accuracy of the tourbillon may not be everyone’s expectation. But travel time accuracy is not the standard for measuring the value of a watch, or even a small part of it. Appearance design, movement polishing, durability, recognition, function and so on are actually what we are more after. However, the meaning of the tourbillon is undeniable. Its design is clever, and one can think of it. The manufacturing process is also of high-precision technology. The contemporary significance of watches and clocks is no longer lingering with the time, and is closer to decoration and artwork. The existence of tourbillon gives this artwork a more dynamic life. The skeletonized movement of this watch exudes the spirit of craftsmanship between each gear, and each part shines light under the lens. It is indeed a limited edition of Jaeger-LeCoultre. But it is worth 1.3 million, everyone should have their own views. Disclaimer: This article is an original work of the author and represents the author’s opinion only. Professional watch knowledge sharing is dedicated to the spread of watch culture today editor |
NOMOS, another famous watchmaking brand, won the award again. Ahoi Neomatik Atlantic watch became the 2018 German Design Award winner. The German Design Awards are designed to recognize products, projects, manufacturers and designers who have made pioneering contributions to the field of design in Germany and the world. They are awarded by a first-rate international jury.
Ahoi series is operated by designer Thomas Höhnel, which is an interpretation of Tangente’s classic sports style. At the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show this year, the Ahoi Neomatik Atlantic watch was first introduced. This watch is 36 mm in diameter and features the DUW 3001 ultra-thin automatic movement.
With its simple appearance and sporty and elegant aesthetics, the Ahoi Neomatik Atlantic watch has won the favor of the expert jury of the German Design Council. The soft curved sapphire crystal is decorated with an anti-glare coating, and the dial’s coloring is reminiscent of an endless ocean. The combination of the two makes this watch more modern and dynamic. The case back is secured by six screws to ensure a water resistance of 200 meters. The crown guard not only effectively protects the crown, but also optimizes the structure ratio of the entire watch. The rose gold hour and minute hands are embedded with green Superluminova fluorescent material, and the orange-red second hand contrasts with the dark dial. Rugged fabric strap that can withstand a variety of environments, both on land and in water.
The German Design Award is the third international design award received by NOMOS Ahoi after the iF Gold Award and Good Design Award. Brand Director Judith Borowski said: ‘We are very pleased that such an important award is a great recognition of our work and an important motivation for us to continue to work.’