At the end of February every year is a big day for the watch to adjust the calendar, because on this day, all mechanical watches around the world that have a calendar function but do not have a perpetual calendar function need to adjust the calendar two days forward or For three days, some people say that the mechanical watch is the ‘pet’ of every watch lover. If the winding is ‘touching’, then adjusting the calendar should be regarded as ‘kissing’. If you are with your ‘pet’ every day, Only at the end of February is it the longest time to ‘kiss’ with it in the year, I believe that most watch lovers should not miss it, but what should we pay attention to when we are ‘pro’ How about it? I will read them one by one for everyone.
The rise of the clock display function of the clock should be after the middle of the 19th century, when modern clocks were basically shaped, and various date display methods began to appear one after another, and there are several forms that are very common. The first is the pointer calendar, which uses a rotating pointer to indicate a fixed scale of 1-31, one step per day, and 31 days as a cycle. The hour hand moves the calendar hand once every two revolutions. This indication method is relatively easy to implement, and early pocket watches have been used more often. But it also has disadvantages, because the area of the calendar dial cannot be too large. Therefore, the numbers from 1 to 31 are omitted and replaced with marks. It seems not clear at a glance, which causes some inconvenience when reading the date.
A branch of the pointer calendar is the retrograde pointer calendar. The English name is Retrograde calendar. The date pointer in this display mode changes from a circular track to a fan-shaped track. The scale of 1- 31 is distributed in a fan shape. After 31 days, the pointer quickly rebounds to the number 1 and starts the next month’s indication. I’m here to say that many people often confuse flyback with flyback. The English name of flyback is Flyback. The word flyback is only used on chronographs. This function means that the chronograph second hand does not need to stop. The key directly performs the next period of time. Although the pointer movement is roughly similar, it is completely two functions and the structure inside is completely different. Back to the calendar, the structure of this display is obviously more complex than the circular pointer type. Although it is not practical, it is highly ornamental.
The wheel calendar can be said to be the most common form of date indication for watches, and is widely used by almost all watch manufacturers. The calendar wheel is engraved with 1-31 digits and jumps every 24 hours. Because the 31 digits on the character wheel are all arranged, the diameter of the character wheel is difficult to shrink to a small size, and it must be arranged along the edge of the movement. Therefore, the date window on the dial must be set near the bezel. Because each number of the calendar is really small, many brands are adding small magnifying glasses to the watch for easy reading, but this also faces a problem, that is, the local thickness of the watch will reduce the level of pressure on the watch. So we see that Rolex’s ‘Ghost King’ has no magnifying glass.
The character wheel calendar has two types of gradients and abrupt changes in structure. The former is simpler. The watch may start to flip from 10 o’clock every night to about 2 o’clock the next day to complete the whole flip process. Although we can not determine the level of the table from the structure of the calendar alone, after all, the abrupt calendar is an embodiment of the level of watchmaking technology. Among the many watch brands in the abrupt calendar, Rolex’s structure is still very special. It uses an eccentric circular cam and a flat perforated ruby, and lifts the dial mechanism to fall instantly when it reaches the highest point. With a crisp ‘snap’, the calendar change is complete. According to the current level of fake watch imitation, this can be regarded as a basis for identifying authenticity.
In order to solve the above-mentioned shortcomings of the calendar display method, in 1994 Lange introduced the world’s first mature calendar watch, which immediately caused a stir in the watchmaking industry. At present, almost all the big brands have their own big calendar products, which are likely to replace the traditional word wheel calendars. When wearing a watch daily, the big calendar is really comfortable to watch. When the big calendar runs from the 31st of the month to the 1st of the next month, the single-digit wheel will stagnate for 48 hours. It is no longer 24 hours. The ten-digit wheel will display a blank surface. And how to make the single-digit wheel stagnate for 48 hours at the end of the month is a technical difficulty of the large calendar mechanism. Lange’s solution is to set a very small groove on the main shaft of the word wheel. The single-digit word wheel will encounter this groove every three 10 days. When the groove is encountered, the tooth holes of the driving wheel will be blocked. The single-digit wheel turns while the ten-digit wheel can still operate. Although the big calendars of other brands have some different structures, the principle is roughly the same. For example, Girard Perregaux changed the material of one of the character wheels to transparent and thin quartz next to the other character wheel so that it has no seams. Tie put the single digit ring around the ten digit circle and so on.
Earlier we saw so many objects that can be ‘kissed’, let me talk about what you need to pay attention to when you ‘kiss’ them. First of all, the most important thing to note is that the calendar of all watches is best not to adjust the date between 22 o’clock and 2 o’clock in the morning, because at this time the calendar dial is running, the bite between the gears is relatively loose, and its tightness It is not enough for the gear teeth to fully mesh and drive each other. If forced adjustment is made at this time, the gear will slip, which is what we often call ‘sweeping teeth’, causing the related gear to friction with the calendar plate, causing excessive wear on both sides. This shortens the life of the movement.
Secondly, let me talk about the pointer calendar. The layout of such calendars is often far from the crown, so most of them are independently adjusted. At this time, the brand will give you a push pin. Use the push pin to press the button next to the calendar and click Take a square. As for the bouncing calendar, since it bounces back to the end of the month, it is best not to use a push pin to stimulate it again. It is safer to use the minute hand to drive it.
Finally, we talk about common character wheel calendars and high-end large calendars. In 1967, the Jaeger-LeCoultre watch factory was granted a patent for the ‘fast dial calendar function’. Pulling the crown to a fixed position makes the character wheel and the hands lose the association, so as to quickly adjust the date, avoid It’s convenient to use the hour hand to rotate the date, but if you only adjust the calendar, sometimes you ca n’t distinguish between morning and afternoon, causing the calendar to skip early or not, and the gear is very light and difficult to find, so I recommend that if the dates are similar It is still more stable to adjust with the minute hand. As for the large calendar, due to its relatively complicated structure, it is still more conservative to adjust.
Although it’s all “pro”, everyone’s feeling of “pro” is different. Let me talk about my experience first. My watch was bought in December last year, so February 28 just passed by me ‘Dear’ with its virgin. My watch is Rolex’s 116710. It will jump on time at 12: 5 every night. The jumping process is clean and neat. Because this watch has the function of two hours, it can not rely on the crown to adjust the calendar wheel directly, but only through the independent adjustment of the hour hand to drive the calendar circle. Since it was the first time I was more excited about the adjustment, I twisted it a few times, and then I adjusted it. I was really annoyed, and I had to adjust it from the beginning, even if I used the hour hand to adjust it for a long time. Just then, fingers twisted back inadvertently, a miracle appeared! The calendar is back, and it can be adjusted in both directions! I almost burst into tears when I was excited, so I tried again and again, but I forgot that it was between 22:00 and 2 o’clock. I really wanted to say sorry to it, but for now everything is normal. Please forgive me for not knowing anything, but I really know for the first time that the calendar of this Rolex watch can be pulled back, and it has never been mentioned by anyone around me whether it is a magazine, website, forum or even a watch player. This has greatly exceeded my expectations, and I even feel that this is a milestone in the history of watch development, because in the future there will never be a day of misadjustment, and we need to readjust things again!
In addition, as far as I know, the Omega 8500 movement now also relies on the hour hand to adjust the calendar, and it can be adjusted back. I personally think that this method of adjusting the calendar by the hour hand is more superior than the adjustment of the calendar gear. The first is stability. The watches I have experienced as an example. The calendar files of most watches are very vague. Causes damage to the movement, and then can be recalled. It is really annoying to readjust the circle one day before. Third, only adjusting the calendar sometimes makes it impossible to distinguish between morning and afternoon, causing the calendar to jump at noon. You can use the hour hand to adjust it. The calendar jumps to prove that it is already adjusted, and you can call it back. The last is that if you look for the calendar gear and the wrong time, adjusting with the hour hand is actually faster!
After finishing my experience, I also hope that everyone will actively leave a message or share their ‘pro’ experience through the Weibo, WeChat, and forum of the Watch House. One is that everyone can communicate with each other and make progress. Watch editors also want to know how the calendar adjustment of other brands of watches feels? For example, what is Rolex’s timeless watch? What big calendars have quick adjustments and so on …
In short, the majority of netizens are our teachers. We still have a lot of relevant knowledge to learn. Only the more our knowledge is, the better we can serve every netizen who comes to the watch house. (Text / picture watch house Mao Zhuang)